Every few years, my husband Peter and I make the pilgrimage to Stowe, Vermont. We stay at The Lodge at Spruce Peak—a beautiful dog-friendly hotel nestled at the base of Mount Mansfield (though our golden retriever Meddo hasn’t joined us yet). We spend our days riding the gondola up to the Cliff House Restaurant, wandering through Shaw’s General Store for gifts and craft syrups, and grabbing pizza at Piecasso. The Von Trapp Family Lodge is there too, still managed by the same family that inspired The Sound of Music, and it’s worth a visit just for the history.
But one of the things I’ve come to love most about Vermont is the cheese. I try to order a charcuterie board just about everywhere we go when we’re there—it’s become a bit of a tradition. There’s something about Vermont cheddar that’s distinctly different—sharper, more complex, with what locals call the “Vermont Bite.” It got me wondering: what makes Vermont cheddar different from English cheddar, or Irish, or Canadian? What even makes cheddar, cheddar?
After years of tasting cheddars from around the world and talking to cheesemakers, I’ve learned that cheddar is as much about process as it is about place. This guide will walk you through everything I’ve discovered—from the traditional cheddaring technique that gives this cheese its name, to the unique characteristics of cheddar from different regions, to practical tips for selecting, storing, and cooking with this most beloved of cheeses.
Table of Contents
- What Makes Cheddar, Cheddar?
- Vermont Cheddar: The American Classic with a Bite
- English West Country Farmhouse Cheddar: The Original
- Irish Cheddar: Kerrygold’s Dubliner and the Hybrid Approach
- Canadian Cheddar: Black Diamond and the Art of Aging
- Australian and New Zealand Cheddar: The “Tasty” Tradition
- Selecting, Storing, and Cooking with Cheddar
- Pairing Suggestions: What Goes with Cheddar
- A Cheese That Travels Well
What Makes Cheddar, Cheddar?
The name “cheddar” comes from the village of Cheddar in Somerset, England, where this cheese was first made as far back as the 12th century. The caves in Cheddar Gorge provided the perfect cool, humid environment for aging cheese, and cheesemakers in that region developed a distinctive process that set their cheese apart.
The Cheddaring Process: A Unique Technique
What truly defines cheddar is a specific technique called “cheddaring,” and it’s the reason this cheese has the texture and flavor profile we associate with good cheddar. After the milk has been cultured and the curds have been cut and cooked, most cheeses go straight to pressing. But cheddar takes an extra step.
Here’s what happens: Once the whey is drained, cheesemakers cut the mass of curds into large slabs—imagine them as blocks about six inches wide. Then they stack these slabs on top of each other, and every ten to fifteen minutes, they turn and restack them. The weight of the slabs pressing on each other squeezes out additional whey and creates a denser, less moisture-rich cheese.
This process continues for one to two hours, and during this time, something important is happening: the acidity keeps developing. Those active cultures are still working, and by the time cheddaring is complete, the pH has typically dropped to around 5.1 to 5.3. This higher acidity is crucial—it’s what gives cheddar its characteristic tang and what allows it to age so beautifully without developing unwanted bacteria.
Once cheddaring is complete, the slabs are milled into smaller pieces (imagine something like thick-cut French fries), salt is added, and then the curds are pressed into wheels or blocks to age. This extra step of stacking and turning is what makes cheddar different from other cheeses, and it’s why the process gave the cheese its name.
Vermont Cheddar: The American Classic with a Bite
When Peter and I drive through Vermont, passing dairy farms with their red barns and grazing cows, I’m always struck by how much this landscape has shaped the character of Vermont cheese. The state’s dairy tradition runs deep, and Vermont cheddar has developed a reputation that sets it apart from cheddar made anywhere else.
What Makes Vermont Cheddar Unique
The first thing you’ll notice about Vermont cheddar is often its color—it’s usually white or pale yellow, without the bright orange color you might see in other American cheddars. That’s because Vermont cheesemakers traditionally don’t add annatto, the natural coloring used in many other cheddars. The pale color comes from the milk itself, often from Jersey cows whose milk is naturally higher in butterfat and protein.
But it’s the flavor profile that really distinguishes Vermont cheddar. Experts talk about something called the “Vermont Bite”—a sulfuric aroma and sharp, sometimes slightly bitter flavor that’s more pronounced than in cheddars from other regions. Some people love this distinctive character; others find it too assertive. Vermonters tend to be proud of their sulfury, bitter-sharp cheeses, and many producers lean into this profile rather than trying to smooth it out.
This unique flavor likely comes from a combination of factors: the specific bacteria cultures used, the milk from Jersey cows grazing on Vermont’s pastures, and the traditional methods many Vermont cheesemakers still employ.
The Big Three: Cabot, Grafton Village, and Shelburne Farms
Cabot Creamery is probably Vermont’s most widely known cheese producer—they’re a large farmer-owned cooperative with facilities across the state, and their cheddars are available throughout the country. They offer everything from mild to seriously sharp aged cheddars, and their Private Stock line showcases some of their longest-aged wheels.
Grafton Village Cheese Company has been making cheese since 1892, when it started as a cooperative for farmers who needed to preserve their surplus milk through the winter. Today, they’re known for using raw milk from local Jersey cows to produce some exceptional aged cheddars. Their 2-Year Aged Cheddar is considered their flagship—it has a dense, firm-yet-creamy texture with buttery notes, sharp tang, and a nutty finish. The cheese develops naturally occurring salt crystals as it ages, which you’ll notice as small white specks throughout the cheese. They also make a clothbound cave-aged cheddar that develops even more complex flavors during its time in Grafton’s aging caves.
Shelburne Farms takes a different approach—they’re a nonprofit educational farm and National Historic Landmark on the shores of Lake Champlain. Their Brown Swiss cows graze on the farm’s own pastures, and they make artisanal raw milk cheddar that’s aged in the traditional way. Their cheese has that rich, grassy quality that comes from cows eating fresh pasture all season long.
English West Country Farmhouse Cheddar: The Original
If Vermont cheddar is the American classic, then West Country Farmhouse Cheddar is the original—the cheese that started it all in the rolling hills of Somerset, Dorset, Devon, and Cornwall in southwestern England.
Protected by Law: What “West Country Farmhouse Cheddar” Really Means
Unlike the name “cheddar” itself (which anyone can use), “West Country Farmhouse Cheddar” is legally protected in the UK and EU with PDO (Protected Designation of Origin) status. To earn this designation, the cheese must meet strict requirements:
The cheese must be made in Somerset, Dorset, Devon, or Cornwall, using milk from cows raised in those same counties. The traditional cheddaring process—stacking and turning the curds by hand—is required. The cheese must be aged for at minimum nine months on the same farm where it was made. No colors, flavors, or preservatives can be added.
There are only about twelve producers who make true West Country Farmhouse Cheddar, and each wheel represents months of careful, hands-on work.
How It Tastes Different
While mass-produced cheddars often taste quite sweet (manufacturers know this appeals to more people), traditional West Country Farmhouse Cheddar is much more savory, grassy, sharp, and creamy. There’s often an unmistakable “farmyard” quality to these cheeses—earthy, complex notes that come from using unpasteurized milk and traditional aging methods.
The texture tends to be slightly crumbly rather than smooth and rubbery, and you’ll often find those desirable calcium lactate crystals—small white specks that develop as the cheese ages and loses moisture. These crystals are actually a sign of a well-aged, quality cheddar.
Notable producers include Keen’s Cheddar (made by the same family for three generations, with a distinguished grassy flavor and hint of spiciness), Montgomery’s (often considered one of the finest examples of traditional clothbound cheddar), and Barber’s (whose 1833 brand won gold at the World Cheese Awards).
Irish Cheddar: Kerrygold’s Dubliner and the Hybrid Approach
Irish cheesemakers have taken a different path with their cheddar, creating something that bridges multiple cheese traditions. The most famous example is Kerrygold’s Dubliner, a cheese that has become hugely popular precisely because it doesn’t fit neatly into one category.
A Cheese That Defies Categories
Dubliner was created by Irish cheesemaker John Lucey in the 1990s with a specific goal: to make something that combined the best characteristics of several classic cheeses. The result is a robust aged cow’s milk cheese that tastes like mature cheddar met Swiss cheese and Parmesan at a party and they all became friends.
You get the sharp tang of aged cheddar, but it’s balanced by the sweet, nutty qualities of Swiss and the piquant, umami bite of Parmesan. The texture is firm and slightly crumbly, with natural calcium lactate crystals that appear as small white pieces throughout the cheese. It’s aged for over twelve months, which gives it complexity while keeping it approachable.
Made in Cork (not Dublin, despite the name) from milk from grass-fed Irish cows, Dubliner has become something of a phenomenon because it works so well in so many contexts. It’s excellent on a cheese board, melts beautifully in cooking, grates nicely over pasta, and pairs well with everything from Guinness to Cabernet to crusty brown bread.
The fact that Ireland’s lush, year-round grazing pastures give the milk a naturally rich, golden color and creamy texture certainly doesn’t hurt. Irish dairy products benefit from the same cool, rainy climate that makes everything so green.
Canadian Cheddar: Black Diamond and the Art of Aging
Canada has a long history with cheddar—in fact, in the late 1800s and early 1900s, cheddar was Canada’s second-largest export after timber. Ontario alone had over 1,200 cheddar factories at the turn of the 20th century. While much of that craft tradition was lost to industrialization, some Canadian producers have maintained the old methods of long aging.
Black Diamond: A Study in Patience
Black Diamond has been making cheddar since 1933, and their approach focuses on extended aging. They make cheddar aged from one year all the way up to five years, and each stage of aging brings distinct changes in flavor, texture, and appearance.
Their philosophy is simple but crucial: if you don’t start with excellent mild cheddar, no amount of aging will improve it. All cheddar begins mild—it’s the aging process that develops sharpness and complexity. As the cheese ages, it loses moisture, becoming drier and more crumbly. Salt crystals develop and become more pronounced. The flavor intensifies, developing that characteristic sharp “bite” that aged cheddar lovers seek out.
At one year (their Reserve), you’re getting a balanced introduction to aged cheddar—some sharpness, but still approachable. At two years (Premium Reserve), the bite begins to overtake the original mild flavor. By three years (Grand Reserve), the cheese is increasingly salty, dry, and crumbly, with complex sharp flavors. Their four and five-year cheddars (Mature Reserve and Vintage Reserve) are for serious aged cheese enthusiasts—intensely sharp, with prominent salt crystals and a texture that crumbles easily.
The use of thermized or raw milk allows Black Diamond to age their cheese this long—pasteurization can sometimes interfere with the complex flavor development that happens over years of aging. Despite the extra aging, a well-made cheddar should retain a creamy body and fresh aroma that clears the palate.
Australian and New Zealand Cheddar: The “Tasty” Tradition
In Australia and New Zealand, cheddar is so ubiquitous that they rarely even use the word “cheddar”—instead, they categorize it by strength: mild, tasty, or sharp. “Tasty” has become almost synonymous with medium-aged cheddar in these countries, and it represents a huge portion of cheese consumption.
Mainland: New Zealand’s “Good Things Take Time” Philosophy
Mainland Cheese, founded in 1954 by Peter McConnon on New Zealand’s South Island, built their entire brand around the philosophy that “Good Things Take Time.” This slogan has been part of their advertising for over thirty years, and it reflects the traditional aging process they use.
Their Tasty Cheddar is aged up to eighteen months, developing an intense flavor with a firm texture that’s both crumbly and deeply smooth. Their Vintage Cheddar ages for up to twenty-four months, resulting in a richer, more complex, spicier flavor with a naturally crumbly texture and visible salt crystals.
The flavor profile tends toward acidic and savory notes with a pleasant bite—a flaky, crumbly, crunchy aged cheddar that’s quite different from the smooth, mild cheddars that dominate American supermarkets. Like Irish cheddar, New Zealand cheddar benefits from milk produced by cows that graze outdoors year-round on lush grass. This gives the cheese a naturally golden yellow color (from beta-carotene in the grass), a sweeter and creamier flavor, and higher levels of beneficial fats like CLAs and omega-3s.
Australian cheddar follows similar patterns, though much of it is factory-produced and consumed relatively young within the country. Some Australian producers do make excellent sharp and extra sharp cheddars that are bold, nutty, crumbly, and creamy—perfect for pairing with Shiraz or a robust brown ale.
Selecting, Storing, and Cooking with Cheddar
How to Choose Cheddar for Different Uses
Mild Cheddar (aged 2-3 months): Smooth, creamy, and approachable. Best for melting in grilled cheese sandwiches, quesadillas, or mac and cheese where you want the cheese to blend smoothly without overpowering other flavors.
Medium or Tasty Cheddar (aged 6-12 months): Develops a pleasant sharpness while remaining versatile. Excellent for everyday use—sandwiches, burgers, cheese boards, or shredded over salads and baked potatoes.
Sharp to Extra Sharp Cheddar (aged 12-24 months): Complex, tangy, and assertive. Best enjoyed on its own or with simple accompaniments like crackers, apples, or crusty bread. Also works well grated over pasta or soups where you want the cheese flavor to shine through.
Vintage or Reserve Cheddar (aged 2+ years): Intensely sharp, crumbly, often with salt crystals. This is for savoring—serve it at room temperature on a cheese board, pair it with bold wines or craft beers, or use it sparingly as a finishing cheese where its complex flavor can be appreciated.
Storage Tips
Cheddar is relatively forgiving, but proper storage will keep it fresh longer and prevent it from drying out or picking up off-flavors from your refrigerator.
Wrap cheese in cheese paper or parchment paper rather than plastic wrap—cheese needs to breathe a little. If you don’t have cheese paper, waxed paper works better than plastic. Store wrapped cheese in the vegetable drawer of your refrigerator where the humidity is slightly higher and temperature more stable. For longer storage, you can wrap cheese well and freeze it, though this will affect the texture somewhat. Thaw frozen cheese in the refrigerator, not at room temperature.
If you see a small amount of mold on hard cheese like cheddar, you can cut off the moldy section (plus about an inch around it) and the rest is fine to eat. The mold hasn’t penetrated deeply into hard cheeses the way it can with soft cheeses.
For the best flavor, bring cheddar to room temperature before serving—this allows the fats to soften and the flavors to fully develop. Take it out of the refrigerator about an hour before you plan to serve it.
Pairing Suggestions: What Goes with Cheddar
One of the things I love about cheddar is how well it pairs with so many foods and drinks. Here are some combinations I’ve enjoyed over the years:
With Fruit
Apples are the classic pairing—the crisp sweetness and slight acidity complement cheddar beautifully. Try tart Granny Smiths with sharp cheddar, or sweeter Honeycrisps with milder versions. Pears also work wonderfully, especially Bosc or Anjou pears with aged cheddar. Grapes provide bursts of sweetness that balance salty, sharp cheddar. Dried fruits like apricots, figs, or cranberries add concentrated sweetness and chewy texture.
With Condiments and Spreads
Whole grain mustard adds tangy heat that cuts through rich cheddar. Honey or apple butter provides sweetness to balance sharp, salty aged cheddar. Chutneys (particularly apple or tomato chutney) bring sweet-savory complexity. Fig jam is luxurious with nutty, aged cheddar. Pickles and pickled vegetables provide acidic crunch.
With Beverages
Beer: English ales, IPAs, stouts, and porters all work beautifully. Guinness with Irish Dubliner is particularly nice.
Wine: For mild to medium cheddar, try Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, or Beaujolais. For sharp aged cheddar, reach for Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, or even Port.
Cider: Hard cider is a natural match, especially with Vermont cheddar—you’re pairing two classic New England products.
On a Cheese Board
Cheddar is often the most accessible cheese on a board, so it’s nice to offer at least one option. Consider including both a milder and a sharper cheddar to show the range. Serve with a variety of crackers (plain water crackers let the cheese shine, while whole grain crackers add texture), fresh and dried fruits, nuts (walnuts and almonds are particularly good), and a few condiment options. Add some cured meats if you’re building a full charcuterie board.
If you’re new to building cheese boards, you might enjoy our learn article, “The Art of Charcuterie: A Journey Through European Tradition and Modern Celebration“, which walks through everything from selecting meats and cheeses to arranging a beautiful presentation.
A Cheese That Travels Well
What I find most remarkable about cheddar is how this one cheese—defined by a specific process developed in a small English village centuries ago—has been adapted and embraced by cheesemakers around the world. Vermont’s sharp, sulfury wheels taste nothing like Ireland’s hybrid Dubliner, which tastes nothing like New Zealand’s grassy Tasty, which tastes nothing like England’s traditional clothbound farmhouse wheels.
And yet they’re all cheddar—all made using that distinctive process of stacking, turning, and pressing curds that creates a cheese dense enough and acidic enough to age beautifully over months or even years.
The next time you’re at the cheese counter or planning a trip to Vermont (I highly recommend it), take a moment to really taste your cheddar. Notice the texture—is it smooth and creamy, or dry and crumbly? Look for those salt crystals that develop in well-aged wheels. Pay attention to the flavor—is it mellow and buttery, or sharp and tangy, or somewhere in between?
There’s a whole world of cheddar out there, and it’s worth exploring. Whether you’re melting it into your favorite mac and cheese recipe or savoring a piece of five-year-aged vintage on a quiet evening, cheddar has earned its place as one of the world’s most beloved cheeses. And now you know a little bit more about why.
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