Brown Butter and Fig Whoopie Pies

Traditional Maine whoopie pies meet brown butter sophistication in this recipe that honors classic technique while introducing warm spices and the unexpected depth of maple liqueur-soaked figs. This is the whoopie pie that taught me how far you can push tradition without breaking it—and why brown butter deserves a place in your baking repertoire.

If you’re curious about the story behind this recipe and why it matters so much to me, you can read the full narrative on the blog: How Brown Butter Became My Secret Ingredient

Want to dive deeper into Maine’s whoopie pie history and culture? Explore our complete guide to this beloved state treat: The Complete Guide to Whoopie Pies

Why This Recipe Works

Whoopie pies are deceptively simple. Two soft, cake-like cookies sandwiched around a marshmallow-flavored filling. But getting them right requires understanding the balance between structure and tenderness, between richness and lightness. This recipe builds on traditional Maine whoopie pie technique—using vegetable shortening for that characteristic tender crumb and stable filling—while introducing brown butter as a flavor component that elevates everything it touches.

The brown butter in the filling is where the magic happens. By cooking butter until the milk solids toast and turn golden, you create a nutty, almost caramel-like depth that regular butter simply can’t achieve. Combined with the traditional marshmallow fluff and shortening base, it gives you a filling that’s both structurally sound (it won’t weep or separate) and incredibly flavorful.

The figs serve double duty. In the cakes, they add texture and natural sweetness, distributing little pockets of fruit throughout. In the filling, moistened with bourbon, they provide bursts of concentrated flavor that complement the brown butter without overwhelming it.

Understanding the Ingredients

The Spice Blend

The combination of allspice, cardamom, cinnamon, and curry powder might seem unusual, but each spice plays a specific role. Allspice provides warmth and depth, acting almost like a bridge between sweet and savory. Cardamom brings a floral, slightly citrusy note that complements the figs beautifully. Cinnamon is used sparingly—just enough to add familiarity without dominating. The curry powder is the surprise ingredient, adding complexity and a subtle earthy warmth that you can’t quite identify but that makes the whole more interesting than the sum of its parts.

Together, these spices create a flavor profile that feels both comforting and sophisticated, familiar and unexpected.

Brown Sugar in Both Components

Using brown sugar instead of white in both the cakes and the filling serves multiple purposes. The molasses in brown sugar adds moisture, which helps keep the cakes tender and the filling smooth. It also contributes a deeper, more complex sweetness that works harmoniously with the brown butter—they share similar flavor notes, which creates cohesion across the entire whoopie pie. In the filling specifically, brown sugar helps balance the pure sweetness of the marshmallow fluff and powdered sugar.

Buttermilk for Tenderness

Buttermilk is traditional in whoopie pie cakes for good reason. The acidity tenderizes the gluten structure, resulting in a softer crumb. It also reacts with the baking soda to provide additional lift. The slight tang of buttermilk balances the sweetness of the brown sugar and figs, preventing the cakes from being cloying. Make sure your buttermilk is at room temperature before adding it—cold buttermilk can cause the shortening to seize, resulting in a lumpy batter.

Shortening vs. Butter in the Cakes

Traditional whoopie pies use vegetable shortening in the cakes, not butter. This is important. Shortening has a higher melting point than butter, which means the cakes hold their shape better during baking and maintain a tender, almost pillowy texture as they cool. Butter would create a crisper edge and denser crumb—delicious in cookies, wrong for whoopie pies. The cakes should be soft enough to yield gently when you bite into the assembled whoopie pie, not crisp or firm.

The Filling Structure

The filling uses both brown butter and shortening, which might seem redundant, but each serves a purpose. The brown butter is all about flavor—that nutty, toasted richness. The shortening provides structure and stability. Marshmallow fluff (marshmallow creme) gives the filling its characteristic light, fluffy texture and helps it hold together. This three-part base creates a filling that’s flavorful, stable, and has the right consistency—spreadable but not runny, fluffy but not insubstantial.

The addition of both powdered sugar and brown sugar in the filling creates a more complex sweetness and ensures the right texture. Powdered sugar dissolves easily and doesn’t add grittiness, while brown sugar contributes that molasses depth that echoes the cakes.

Maple Liqueur-Soaked Figs

Dried figs are dense and chewy, which can be jarring in a soft filling. Soaking them in maple liqueur serves multiple purposes. First, it softens the figs, making them more tender and easier to incorporate. Second, it infuses them with flavor—maple liqueur’s sweet, woody notes complement both the figs and the brown butter beautifully, reinforcing that New England character. Third, it prevents the figs from absorbing moisture from the filling itself, which could make the filling unstable. For the best results, soak the figs overnight, though a minimum of 15 minutes will work in a pinch. If you can’t find maple liqueur, bourbon makes an excellent substitute with its vanilla and caramel notes. For a non-alcoholic option, warm water or orange juice works, though you’ll lose some of that depth.

Key Techniques

Making Brown Butter

Brown butter is simple but requires attention. Use a light-colored saucepan so you can see the color change as the butter cooks—this is crucial because the difference between perfectly browned and burned happens quickly. Melt the butter over medium heat, then continue cooking while swirling the pan occasionally. You’ll see it foam, then the foam will subside, and the butter will begin to turn golden. Keep cooking until it’s a rich amber color and smells distinctly nutty, almost like toasted hazelnuts. Immediately pour it into a heatproof bowl to stop the cooking—the residual heat in the pan can push it from perfect to burned.

Make sure to scrape all the browned bits from the bottom of the pan into the bowl. Those are the toasted milk solids, and they carry the most flavor. Let the brown butter cool completely to room temperature before using it in the filling. If you add warm brown butter to the shortening and marshmallow fluff, it will melt them, resulting in a runny, unstable filling.

The Creaming Method for Cakes

Beating the shortening and brown sugar together until light and fluffy is essential for creating the right texture in the cakes. This process incorporates air, which helps the cakes rise and creates a tender crumb. Don’t rush this step—3 to 4 minutes of beating is necessary. The mixture should look lighter in color and noticeably increased in volume.

When you add the flour mixture and buttermilk, alternate them and mix only until just combined. Overmixing develops gluten, which would make the cakes tough instead of tender. The batter will be relatively thick—this is correct. Thin batter would spread too much during baking and create flat, crispy cakes instead of the rounded, soft ones you want.

Achieving the Right Filling Consistency

The filling should be fluffy and spreadable but hold its shape when you pipe or spread it onto the cakes. If it’s too thick, it will be difficult to work with and won’t spread evenly when you sandwich the cakes together. If it’s too thin, it will squeeze out the sides and won’t provide the right structure. The heavy cream is your adjustment tool—add it one tablespoon at a time, beating well after each addition, until you reach the right consistency. The filling should form soft peaks when you lift the beaters but still be smooth enough to spread easily.

Assembly and Resting

(Image shows miniature Whoopie Pies as opposed to the size our recipe represents, but this is a good example of assembly.)

Matching up the cakes by size before assembly ensures each whoopie pie looks uniform. It’s a small detail, but it makes a difference in the final presentation. When you add the filling, use enough (about 2 to 3 tablespoons per whoopie pie) to get good coverage without overfilling. Press gently when you top with the second cake—you want the filling to spread to the edges but not squeeze out excessively.

Let the assembled whoopie pies rest at room temperature for about 30 minutes before serving. This allows the filling to set slightly and the cakes to absorb a bit of moisture from the filling, creating that characteristic slightly sticky texture that makes whoopie pies so appealing.

Make-Ahead and Storage Notes

Whoopie pies actually improve after a day. The cakes soften slightly as they absorb moisture from the filling, and the flavors meld together. Store them in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 2 days, though they’re at their best on day two. For longer storage, refrigerate for up to 5 days, but bring them to room temperature before serving—cold whoopie pies have a firmer texture that doesn’t showcase the filling properly.

These freeze beautifully for up to 2 months. Wrap each whoopie pie individually in plastic wrap, then place them all in a freezer bag. Thaw overnight in the refrigerator, then bring to room temperature before serving.

You can also make the components ahead separately. The cakes can be baked, cooled, and stored in an airtight container for 2 days before filling. The filling can be made a day ahead and refrigerated—just bring it to room temperature and beat it briefly to restore the fluffy texture before using.

Troubleshooting

(Photo shows acceptable, but runny, icing. It’s all up to preference, but runny icing may leak out and be messy to eat.)

If your cakes spread too much during baking, the batter was too thin. Make sure you’re measuring flour correctly (spoon it into the measuring cup and level it off, don’t scoop) and that your leaveners are fresh.

If your cakes are tough or dense, you likely overmixed the batter after adding the flour. Mix only until the ingredients are just combined—a few small lumps are fine.

If your filling is runny, the brown butter was probably still too warm when you added it, melting the shortening and marshmallow fluff. Make sure it’s completely cooled to room temperature. If this happens, you can try refrigerating the filling for 15 to 20 minutes, then beating it again—sometimes it will come back together.

If your filling is grainy, the sugars didn’t dissolve properly. Beat the filling longer on medium-high speed, which will help break down any sugar crystals. Make sure your shortening and brown butter were at room temperature when you started—cold fats won’t incorporate smoothly.

Why These Whoopie Pies Matter

This recipe represents a philosophy about cooking: respect tradition, but don’t be afraid to bring something new to it. Maine whoopie pies are iconic for a reason—the basic formula works beautifully. But there’s room within that framework to explore, to add complexity, to make something that feels both familiar and surprising.

The brown butter, the figs, the warm spices—these aren’t arbitrary additions. They’re chosen specifically to work with the traditional structure, to enhance rather than overwhelm. The result is a whoopie pie that would make sense to someone who loves the classics but offers something extra to people who want a little more depth.

And that, ultimately, is what good cooking does. It honors what came before while finding room for your own voice.